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Kami Menjumpai Buah Super Seterusnya di Israel


Lupakan blueberry, delima dan acai. Terdapat buah super baru di bandar dan Alkitab menyokongnya… .sungguh serius.

Saya tidak pernah mendengar tentang etrog, buah sitrus yang menyerupai lemon montel, sehingga saya mendarat di Tel Aviv, khususnya di kedai jus Uzi-Eli di pintu masuk ke Carmel shuk (pasar).

Uzi-Eli seorang lelaki berusia 70 tahun yang kelihatan sekitar dua puluh tahun lebih muda, adalah seorang penyembuh kelahiran Yaman yang mendarat di Israel beberapa dekad yang lalu.

Dia mendakwa jus dan ramuan herba berdasarkan doktrin yang dikemukakan oleh Rabbi, sarjana dan ahli falsafah abad pertengahan Yahudi, Musa Maimonides dan bahawa buah suci itu diberikan tempat kehormatan dalam buku Perjanjian Lama Imamat. Dia mendapat banyak gelaran, di antaranya "jus man" dan "guru spiritual." Tetapi dia membiarkan orang memanggilnya Uzi.

Ketika saya mula-mula memasuki kedai jus kecil yang funky, seorang wanita cantik, salah satu daripada tiga anak Uzi-Eli dan satu-satunya gadis, di belakang kaunter menghirup jus etrogen pertama saya.

Sekiranya jus itu membuat apa-apa untuk membuat saya kelihatan seperti dia, saya masuk, saya berfikir sendiri.

Seorang lelaki yang gelisah hampir mendorong saya keluar untuk meminta jus hijau miliknya.

"Maafkan saya!" Saya berkata dengan kesal.

"Maaf," katanya dengan sopan. "Saya hanya ketagih dengan jus ini." Dia tidak kelihatan seperti penagih. dia memakai sut dan alat dengar bluetooth yang megah. Saya membiarkan dia melalui. Siapa saya untuk menghalangnya.

Buah etrog menyerupai lemon raksasa, tetapi dengan bentuk yang lebih seksi. Memang ia adalah buah yang cantik, salah satu sebabnya adalah simbol kesuburan dan keindahan.

Saya mengambil slug daripadanya. Rasanya enak, tart dan manis dengan rasa selepas berumput. Adakah saya berasa berbeza? Tidak juga. Sekurang-kurangnya belum.

Uzi-Eli akan membuat "ubat" untuk anda berdasarkan apa sahaja yang menimpa anda. Mula-mula dia bertanya kepada anda serangkaian soalan mengenai gejala anda, corak tidur anda, masalah perut, mood dan emosi anda. Kadang kala dia meminta anda melukiskan gambaran bagaimana perasaan anda ... ketika itu.

Dia mendakwa ramuannya baik untuk menyembuhkan keletihan, kesakitan, diabetes, tekanan, kegelisahan dan kemandulan kronik. Mereka meningkatkan sistem imun anda dan bahkan dapat membantu membawa kesihatan dan kebahagiaan. Sebahagian daripada mereka malah menjadikan anda kelihatan dan berasa lebih muda. Itulah yang kami panggil mempunyai semuanya.

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Artikel ini pada mulanya diterbitkan oleh Jo Piazza pada 12 November 2015


Anggur Kuno Adalah Masa Depan Anggur Israel

Tiga pembuat anggur yang membungkus sejarah Israel.

& # x201Adakah anggur yang diminum oleh Yesus? & # x201D Ini adalah tindak balas automatik yang hampir saya terima setiap kali saya menyatakan minat terhadap anggur yang dibuat dari anggur asli Israel & # x2019. Tetapi daya tarikan geek saya tidak berasas. Walaupun pembuatan anggur moden di negara ini cenderung memberi tumpuan kepada pemindahan varieti Perancis, seperti Chardonnay dan Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild dari Bordeaux & # x2019s Chateau Lafite membawa penanaman pada akhir abad ke-19), sekumpulan kecil pembuat anggur kini telah kembali ke akar vitikultur negara & # x2019s. Sebilangan spesimen ini bukan sahaja berasal dari tanah dan negara mereka & # x2019 juga sangat tua. Penyelidik dan pakar oenologi Universiti Ariel Elyashiv Drori telah menemui sebutan mengenai anggur putih Jandali dan Hamdani (juga dikenali sebagai Marawi) dalam Talmud Babilonia sejak tahun 220 AC Sekarang, anggur tersebut perlahan-lahan memasuki portfolio Israel & # x2019s kilang wain Di tempat yang mempunyai kuno dalam DNAnya, mengapa, saya & # x2019 sering bertanya-tanya, adakah sejarah ini diabaikan begitu lama?

Sebagai sommelier muda yang menarik pada Februari 2012, saya pergi ke Tel Aviv untuk IsraWinExpo & # x2013 pameran perdagangan wain terbesar di negara ini. Saya yakin rasa itu akan dipenuhi dengan anggur tempatan yang saya tidak tahu & # x2014Israel & # x2019s setara dengan Yunani & # x2019s Assyrtico atau Lebenon & # x2019s Merwah. Namun saya pergi mengempis. Pembuat minuman anggur dengan bersemangat memuji tong kayu oak Perancis baru dan campuran antarabangsa. Pertanyaan saya mengenai anggur tempatan dipenuhi dengan rasa malu. Wain yang saya rasakan terasa seperti penipu: dibuat dalam Israel tetapi tidak semestinya dari di sini.

Tetapi Drori sudah ada dalam kasus ini, meninjau populasi tanaman anggur asli dari makmalnya di penempatan Ariel Tepi Barat. Pasukannya telah mengenal pasti 150 genom unik yang mengejutkan dari pengumpulan sampel anggur & # x2014 baik liar dan dari penanam di seluruh negara. Dua puluh menunjukkan janji paling banyak untuk anggur. Dia berusaha untuk membuktikan kuno anggur ini dengan memadankannya dengan bahan tanaman yang terdapat dalam penggalian arkeologi. & # x201CKami mungkin mempunyai warisan anggur yang paling menarik, & # x201D katanya, & # x201Tetapi kami memerlukan fakta untuk benar-benar menyokongnya, dan dokumentasi itu diabaikan di sini selama bertahun-tahun. & # x201D

Penyelidikan Drori mengenai anggur yang disebut Marawi menarik perhatian Recanati Winery & # x2019s winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. & # x201CI pertama kali mencuba vinifikasi mikro Marawi dari Drori tiga tahun lalu dan segera melihat potensinya, & # x201D kata Lewinsohn. & # x201CJadi & # 39; harapan saya bahawa varieti tempatan seperti ini, serta lebih banyak anggur Mediterranean seperti Marselan dan Carignan akan membantu kami dalam mencari kesamaan Israel yang sebenar. & # x201D Sejak itu Recanati telah menanam kebun anggur Marawi sendiri, tetapi menemui buah pada mulanya terbukti menyusahkan. Untuk pembukaan botol Marawi 2014 yang pertama (peluncuran anggur pertama di negara ini), kilang anggur itu mengikat anggur dari sumber rahsia: seorang penanam Palestin berhampiran Bethlehem yang meminta identitinya disembunyikan. Sekiranya didapati bahawa dia menjual anggurnya untuk anggur & # x2014dan kepada Israel tidak kurang juga & # x2014mungkin ada akibat yang serius. & # x201CKami tahu dia menanam anggur di trellise pergola dan bahawa kebun anggurnya diusahakan kering, & # x201D kata Lewinsohn, & # x201Tapi bahawa & # x2019semua maklumat yang kami ada. & # x201D

Teras zaitun di Cremisan Wine Estate di Tebing Barat

& # xA9 Peter Weltman & # xA9 Peter Weltman

Anggur rendah alkohol (sekitar 12 peratus) dengan keasidan yang kuat, rasa tembikai dan pir yang masak dan rasa mulut yang kaya tekstur dari penuaan lapan bulan di lees. 2015 yang baru dibotolkan rasanya lebih segar, nota tembikai hijau dan kekemasan yang mengingatkan pada Chenin Blanc. Label ini memaparkan nama anggur dalam bahasa Ibrani dan Arab & # x2013 sebagai petunjuk halus mengenai asal-usul penyeberangan sempadannya.

Lebih jauh ke daratan di Cremisan Wine Estate, kepala vintner Fadi Batarseh tidak asing dengan kerumitan geografi seperti ini. Pabrik anggur, yang berkaitan dengan biara Kristian, terletak di Tebing Barat. Harta tanahnya & teres batu dramatik yang dipenuhi dengan pohon zaitun dan anggur anggur & # x2014 terletak di kawasan yang sekarang dianggap Bait Jala, Palestin, tetapi itu boleh berubah dengan arus politik. Batarseh sebelumnya telah menulis tesisnya mengenai anggur asli tanah ini semasa belajar oenologi di Trento, Itali. Pada tahun 2007, dia berpasangan dengan ahli oenologi Itali terkenal Riccardo Cotarella untuk memulakan Cremisan & # x2019s Bintang Betlehem seri. & # x201CProjek ini menumpukan pada idea asal, & # x201D katanya. & # x201CKami mempunyai peluang unik ini bukan hanya di Tanah Suci tetapi juga membuat anggur dari anggur asalnya. & # x201D Satu wain dari siri ini, Baladi 2013, adalah satu-satunya merah asli yang saya temui. Ini mempunyai rasa plum mewah yang dapat menyaingi ungkapan Merlot Itali utara terbaik, beraksen dengan nota kopi seperti Syrah. Gabungan lima puluh lima puluh Hamdani (Marawi) dan Jandali yang saya rasakan kemudiannya berkongsi nota tembikai hijau yang serupa dengan wain Marawi yang lain tetapi dengan rasa masin dan sedikit keasidan, yang boleh menjadi ciri anggur Jandali yang lebih jarang.

Saya bertemu dengan seorang lelaki yang sangat mengenali & # x2019s vinescape & # x2014former Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein & makan tengah hari di Tel Aviv & # x2019s Levinsky Market. Dia baru sahaja melancarkan labelnya sendiri awal tahun ini, dan salah satu fokus projek baru adalah Dabouki. Maksud & quotstik & quot dalam bahasa Arab, anggur putih kuno beruban ini banyak ditanam di perbatasan Israel 1948 tetapi telah lama diturunkan untuk digunakan sebagai anggur meja atau dijual dalam jumlah besar untuk disuling sebagai Arak. & # x201Arab merujuk kepada beberapa perkara sebagai min al - & # x2018asr al-rumani, bermaksud & # x2018dari zaman orang Rom, & # x2019 & # x201D kata Feldstein. & # x201CMaksud saya, Dabouki berasal dari sebelumnya! & # x201D Dia menuangkan sampel tangki Dabouki 2015 yang beberapa minggu dari pembotolan, dibuat dari anggur dari tanaman anggur yang dilatih belukar berusia 60 tahun di Hulu Galilee. Ia mempunyai nota tembikai kuning yang berbeza, yang memuaskan Feldstein. & # x201CKami mempunyai tembikai ini di Israel, & # x201D katanya, & # x201Jadi rasanya mempertahankan ekspresi tempatnya! & # x201D

Ungkapan terroir sejati & # x2014bukan hanya dari tanah dan iklim setempat, tetapi juga sejarah tempatan & # x2014 adalah sesuatu yang diharapkan oleh pembuat anggur ini. Dan, sambil mencuba anggur, saya rasa mereka & # 39; Industri wain Israel & # x2019s di tengah-tengah kebangkitan terpentingnya dalam ribuan tahun.


Anggur Kuno Adalah Masa Depan Anggur Israel

Tiga pembuat anggur yang membungkus sejarah Israel.

& # x201Adakah anggur yang diminum oleh Yesus? & # x201D Ini adalah tindak balas automatik yang hampir saya terima setiap kali saya menyatakan minat terhadap anggur yang dibuat dari anggur asli Israel & # x2019. Tetapi daya tarikan geek saya tidak berasas. Walaupun pembuatan anggur moden di negara ini cenderung memfokuskan pada pemindahan jenis Perancis, seperti Chardonnay dan Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild dari Bordeaux & Chateau Lafite telah membawa penanaman pada akhir abad ke-19), sekumpulan kecil pembuat anggur kini telah kembali ke akar viticultural negara & # x2019s. Sebilangan spesimen ini bukan sahaja berasal dari tanah dan negara mereka juga sangat tua. Penyelidik dan pakar oenologi Universiti Ariel, Elyashiv Drori telah menemui sebutan mengenai anggur putih Jandali dan Hamdani (juga dikenali sebagai Marawi) dalam Talmud Babilonia sejak tahun 220 AC Sekarang, anggur tersebut perlahan-lahan memasuki portofolio Israel & # x2019s kilang wain Di tempat yang mempunyai zaman kuno dalam DNAnya, mengapa, saya & # x2019 sering bertanya-tanya, adakah sejarah ini diabaikan begitu lama?

Sebagai sommelier muda yang menarik pada Februari 2012, saya pergi ke Tel Aviv untuk IsraWinExpo & # x2013 pameran perdagangan wain terbesar di negara ini. Saya yakin rasa itu akan dipenuhi dengan anggur tempatan yang saya tidak tahu & # x2014Israel & # x2019s setara dengan Yunani & # x2019s Assyrtico atau Lebenon & # x2019s Merwah. Namun saya pergi mengempis. Pembuat minuman anggur dengan bersemangat memuji tong kayu oak Perancis baru dan campuran antarabangsa. Pertanyaan saya mengenai anggur tempatan dipenuhi dengan rasa malu. Wain yang saya rasakan terasa seperti penipu: dibuat dalam Israel tetapi tidak semestinya dari di sini.

Tetapi Drori sudah ada dalam kasus ini, meninjau populasi tanaman anggur asli dari makmalnya di penempatan Ariel Tepi Barat. Pasukannya telah mengenal pasti 150 genom unik yang mengejutkan dari pengumpulan sampel anggur & # x2014 baik liar dan dari penanam di seluruh negara. Dua puluh menunjukkan janji paling banyak untuk anggur. Dia berusaha untuk membuktikan kuno anggur ini dengan memadankannya dengan bahan tanaman yang terdapat dalam penggalian arkeologi. & # x201CKami mungkin mempunyai warisan anggur yang paling menarik, & # x201D katanya, & # x201Tetapi kami memerlukan fakta untuk benar-benar menyokongnya, dan dokumentasi itu diabaikan di sini selama bertahun-tahun. & # x201D

Penyelidikan Drori mengenai anggur yang disebut Marawi menarik perhatian Recanati Winery & # x2019s winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. & # x201CI pertama kali mencuba vinifikasi mikro Marawi dari Drori tiga tahun yang lalu dan segera melihat potensinya, & # x201D kata Lewinsohn. & # x201CJadi & # 39; harapan saya bahawa varieti tempatan seperti ini, serta lebih banyak anggur Mediterranean seperti Marselan dan Carignan akan membantu kami dalam mencari kesamaan Israel yang sebenar. & # x201D Sejak itu Recanati telah menanam kebun anggur Marawi sendiri, tetapi menemui buah pada mulanya terbukti menyusahkan. Untuk pembukaan botol Marawi 2014 yang pertama (peluncuran anggur pertama di negara ini), kilang anggur tersebut mengikat anggur dari sumber rahsia: seorang penanam Palestin berhampiran Bethlehem yang meminta identitinya disembunyikan. Sekiranya didapati bahawa dia menjual anggurnya untuk anggur & # x2014dan kepada Israel tidak kurang & # x2014mungkin ada kesan yang serius. & # x201CKami tahu dia menanam anggur di trellise pergola dan bahawa kebun anggurnya diusahakan kering, & # x201D kata Lewinsohn, & # x201Tapi bahawa & # x2019semua maklumat yang kami ada. & # x201D

Teras zaitun di Cremisan Wine Estate di Tebing Barat

& # xA9 Peter Weltman & # xA9 Peter Weltman

Anggur rendah alkohol (sekitar 12 peratus) dengan keasidan yang kuat, rasa tembikai dan pir yang masak dan rasa mulut yang kaya tekstur dari penuaan lapan bulan di lees. 2015 yang baru dibotolkan rasanya lebih segar, nota tembikai hijau dan kekemasan yang mengingatkan pada Chenin Blanc. Label ini memaparkan nama anggur dalam bahasa Ibrani dan Arab & # x2013 petunjuk yang halus mengenai asal-usul penyeberangan sempadannya.

Lebih jauh ke daratan di Cremisan Wine Estate, kepala vintner Fadi Batarseh tidak asing dengan kerumitan geografi seperti ini. Pabrik anggur, yang berkaitan dengan biara Kristian, terletak di Tebing Barat. Harta tanahnya & teres batu dramatik yang dipenuhi dengan pohon zaitun dan anggur anggur & # x2014 terletak di kawasan yang sekarang dianggap Bait Jala, Palestin, tetapi itu boleh berubah dengan arus politik. Batarseh sebelumnya telah menulis tesisnya mengenai anggur asli tanah ini semasa belajar oenologi di Trento, Itali. Pada tahun 2007, dia berpasangan dengan ahli oenologi Itali terkenal Riccardo Cotarella untuk memulakan Cremisan & # x2019s Bintang Betlehem seri. & # x201CProjek ini menumpukan pada idea asal, & # x201D katanya. & # x201CKami mempunyai peluang unik ini bukan hanya di Tanah Suci tetapi juga membuat anggur dari anggur asalnya. & # x201D Satu wain dari siri ini, Baladi 2013, adalah satu-satunya merah asli yang saya temui. Ini mempunyai rasa plum mewah yang dapat menyaingi ungkapan Merlot Itali utara terbaik, beraksen dengan nota kopi seperti Syrah. Gabungan lima puluh lima puluh Hamdani (Marawi) dan Jandali yang saya rasakan kemudiannya berkongsi nota tembikai hijau yang serupa dengan wain Marawi yang lain tetapi dengan rasa masin dan sedikit keasidan, yang boleh menjadi ciri anggur Jandali yang lebih jarang.

Saya bertemu dengan seorang lelaki yang sangat mengenali & # x2019s vinescape & # x2014former Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein & makan tengah hari di Tel Aviv & # x2019s Levinsky Market. Dia baru sahaja melancarkan labelnya sendiri awal tahun ini, dan salah satu fokus projek baru adalah Dabouki. Maksud & quotstik & quot dalam bahasa Arab, anggur putih kuno beruban ini banyak ditanam di perbatasan Israel 1948 tetapi telah lama diturunkan untuk digunakan sebagai anggur meja atau dijual dalam jumlah besar untuk disuling sebagai Arak. & # x201Arab merujuk kepada beberapa perkara sebagai min al - & # x2018asr al-rumani, bermaksud & # x2018dari zaman orang Rom, & # x2019 & # x201D kata Feldstein. & # x201CMaksud saya, Dabouki berasal dari sebelumnya! & # x201D Dia menuangkan sampel tangki Dabouki 2015 yang beberapa minggu dari pembotolan, dibuat dari anggur dari tanaman anggur yang dilatih belukar berusia 60 tahun di Hulu Galilee. Ia mempunyai nota tembikai kuning yang berbeza, yang memuaskan Feldstein. & # x201CKami mempunyai tembikai ini di Israel, & # x201D katanya, & # x201Jadi rasanya mempertahankan ekspresi tempatnya! & # x201D

Ungkapan terroir sejati & # x2014bukan hanya dari tanah dan iklim setempat, tetapi juga sejarah tempatan & # x2014 adalah sesuatu yang diharapkan oleh pembuat anggur ini. Dan, sambil mencuba anggur, saya rasa mereka & # 39; Industri wain Israel & # x2019s di tengah-tengah kebangkitan terpentingnya dalam ribuan tahun.


Anggur Kuno Adalah Masa Depan Anggur Israel

Tiga pembuat anggur yang membungkus sejarah Israel.

& # x201Adakah anggur yang diminum oleh Yesus? & # x201D Ini adalah tindak balas automatik yang hampir saya terima setiap kali saya menyatakan minat terhadap anggur yang dibuat dari anggur asli Israel & # x2019. Tetapi daya tarikan geek saya tidak berasas. Walaupun pembuatan anggur moden di negara ini cenderung memberi tumpuan kepada pemindahan varieti Perancis, seperti Chardonnay dan Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild dari Bordeaux & # x2019s Chateau Lafite membawa penanaman pada akhir abad ke-19), sekumpulan kecil pembuat anggur kini telah kembali ke akar vitikultur negara & # x2019s. Sebilangan spesimen ini bukan sahaja berasal dari tanah dan negara mereka juga sangat tua. Penyelidik dan pakar oenologi Universiti Ariel, Elyashiv Drori telah menemui sebutan mengenai anggur putih Jandali dan Hamdani (juga dikenali sebagai Marawi) dalam Talmud Babilonia sejak tahun 220 AC Sekarang, anggur tersebut perlahan-lahan memasuki portofolio Israel & # x2019s kilang wain Di tempat yang mempunyai zaman kuno dalam DNAnya, mengapa, saya & # x2019 sering bertanya-tanya, adakah sejarah ini diabaikan begitu lama?

Sebagai sommelier muda yang menarik pada Februari 2012, saya pergi ke Tel Aviv untuk IsraWinExpo & # x2013 pameran perdagangan wain terbesar di negara ini. Saya yakin rasa itu akan dipenuhi dengan anggur tempatan yang saya tidak tahu & # x2014Israel & # x2019s setara dengan Yunani & # x2019s Assyrtico atau Lebenon & # x2019s Merwah. Namun saya pergi mengempis. Pembuat minuman anggur dengan bersemangat memuji tong kayu oak Perancis baru dan campuran antarabangsa. Pertanyaan saya mengenai anggur tempatan dipenuhi dengan rasa malu. Wain yang saya rasakan terasa seperti penipu: dibuat dalam Israel tetapi tidak semestinya dari di sini.

Tetapi Drori sudah ada dalam kasus ini, meninjau populasi tanaman anggur asli dari makmalnya di penempatan Ariel Tepi Barat. Pasukannya telah mengenal pasti 150 genom unik yang mengejutkan dari pengumpulan sampel anggur & # x2014 baik liar dan dari penanam di seluruh negara. Dua puluh menunjukkan janji paling banyak untuk anggur. Dia berusaha untuk membuktikan kuno anggur ini dengan memadankannya dengan bahan tanaman yang terdapat dalam penggalian arkeologi. & # x201CKami mungkin mempunyai warisan wain yang paling menarik, & # x201D katanya, & # x201Tapi kami memerlukan fakta untuk benar-benar menyokongnya, dan dokumentasi itu diabaikan di sini selama bertahun-tahun. & # x201D

Penyelidikan Drori mengenai anggur bernama Marawi menarik perhatian Recanati Winery & # x2019s winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. & # x201CI pertama kali mencuba vinifikasi mikro Marawi dari Drori tiga tahun lalu dan segera melihat potensinya, & # x201D kata Lewinsohn. & # x201CJadi & # 39; harapan saya bahawa varieti tempatan seperti ini, serta lebih banyak anggur Mediterranean seperti Marselan dan Carignan akan membantu kami dalam mencari keunikan Israel yang sebenar. & # x201D Recanati sejak itu menanam kebun anggur Marawi sendiri, tetapi menemui buah pada mulanya terbukti menyusahkan. Untuk pembukaan botol Marawi 2014 yang pertama (peluncuran anggur pertama di negara ini), kilang anggur tersebut mengikat anggur dari sumber rahsia: seorang penanam Palestin berhampiran Bethlehem yang meminta identitinya disembunyikan. Sekiranya didapati bahawa dia menjual anggurnya untuk anggur & # x2014dan kepada Israel tidak kurang & # x2014mungkin ada kesan yang serius. & # x201CKami tahu dia menanam anggur di trellis pergola dan bahawa kebun anggurnya diusahakan kering, & # x201D kata Lewinsohn, & # x201Tapi bahawa & # x2019semua maklumat yang kita ada. & # x201D

Teras zaitun di Cremisan Wine Estate di Tebing Barat

& # xA9 Peter Weltman & # xA9 Peter Weltman

Anggur rendah alkohol (sekitar 12 peratus) dengan keasidan yang kuat, rasa tembikai dan pir yang masak dan rasa mulut yang kaya tekstur dari penuaan lapan bulan di lees. 2015 yang baru dibotolkan rasanya lebih segar, nota tembikai hijau dan kekemasan yang mengingatkan pada Chenin Blanc. Label ini memaparkan nama anggur dalam bahasa Ibrani dan Arab & # x2013 sebagai petunjuk halus mengenai asal-usul penyeberangan sempadannya.

Lebih jauh ke daratan di Cremisan Wine Estate, kepala vintner Fadi Batarseh tidak asing dengan kerumitan geografi seperti ini. Pabrik anggur, yang berkaitan dengan biara Kristian, terletak di Tebing Barat. Harta tanahnya & teres batu dramatik yang dipenuhi dengan pohon zaitun dan anggur anggur & # x2014 terletak di kawasan yang sekarang dianggap Bait Jala, Palestin, tetapi itu boleh berubah dengan arus politik. Batarseh sebelumnya telah menulis tesisnya mengenai anggur asli tanah ini semasa belajar oenologi di Trento, Itali. Pada tahun 2007, dia berpasangan dengan ahli oenologi Itali terkenal Riccardo Cotarella untuk memulakan Cremisan & # x2019s Bintang Betlehem seri. & # x201CProjek ini menumpukan pada idea asal, & # x201D katanya. & # x201CKami mempunyai peluang unik ini bukan hanya di Tanah Suci tetapi juga membuat anggur dari anggur asalnya. & # x201D Satu wain dari siri ini, Baladi 2013, adalah satu-satunya merah asli yang saya temui. Ini mempunyai rasa plum mewah yang dapat menyaingi ungkapan Merlot Itali utara terbaik, beraksen dengan nota kopi seperti Syrah. Gabungan lima puluh lima puluh Hamdani (Marawi) dan Jandali yang saya rasakan kemudiannya berkongsi nota tembikai hijau yang serupa dengan wain Marawi yang lain tetapi dengan keaslian dan sedikit keasidan, yang boleh menjadi ciri anggur Jandali yang lebih jarang.

Saya bertemu dengan seorang lelaki yang sangat mengenali & # x2019s vinescape & # x2014former Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein & makan tengah hari di Tel Aviv & # x2019s Levinsky Market. Dia baru sahaja melancarkan labelnya sendiri awal tahun ini, dan salah satu fokus projek baru adalah Dabouki. Maksud & quotstik & quot dalam bahasa Arab, anggur putih kuno beruban ini banyak ditanam di perbatasan Israel 1948 tetapi telah lama diturunkan untuk digunakan sebagai anggur meja atau dijual dalam jumlah besar untuk disuling sebagai Arak. & # x201Arab merujuk kepada beberapa perkara sebagai min al - & # x2018asr al-rumani, bermaksud & # x2018dari zaman orang Rom, & # x2019 & # x201D kata Feldstein. & # x201CMaksud saya, Dabouki berasal dari sebelumnya! & # x201D Dia menuangkan sampel tangki Dabouki 2015 yang beberapa minggu dari pembotolan, dibuat dari anggur tanaman anggur yang dilatih belukar berusia 60 tahun di Hulu Galilee. Ia mempunyai nota tembikai kuning yang berbeza, yang memuaskan Feldstein. & # x201CKami mempunyai tembikai ini di Israel, & # x201D katanya, & # x201Jadi rasanya mempertahankan ekspresi tempatnya! & # x201D

Ungkapan terroir sejati & # x2014bukan hanya dari tanah dan iklim setempat, tetapi juga sejarah tempatan & # x2014 adalah sesuatu yang diharapkan oleh pembuat anggur ini. Dan, sambil mencuba anggur, saya rasa mereka & # 39; Industri wain Israel & # 39; s di tengah-tengah kebangkitan terpenting dalam ribuan tahun.


Anggur Kuno Adalah Masa Depan Anggur Israel

Tiga pembuat anggur yang membungkus sejarah Israel.

& # x201Adakah anggur yang diminum oleh Yesus? & # x201D Ini adalah tindak balas automatik yang hampir saya terima setiap kali saya menyatakan minat terhadap anggur yang dibuat dari anggur asli Israel & # x2019. Tetapi daya tarikan geek saya tidak berasas. Walaupun pembuatan anggur moden di negara ini cenderung memfokuskan pada pemindahan jenis Perancis, seperti Chardonnay dan Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild dari Bordeaux & Chateau Lafite telah membawa penanaman pada akhir abad ke-19), sekumpulan kecil pembuat anggur kini telah kembali ke akar vitikultur negara & # x2019s. Sebilangan spesimen ini bukan sahaja berasal dari tanah dan negara mereka juga sangat tua. Penyelidik dan pakar oenologi Universiti Ariel, Elyashiv Drori telah menemui sebutan mengenai anggur putih Jandali dan Hamdani (juga dikenali sebagai Marawi) dalam Talmud Babilonia sejak tahun 220 AC Sekarang, anggur tersebut perlahan-lahan memasuki portofolio Israel & # x2019s kilang wain Di tempat yang mempunyai zaman kuno dalam DNAnya, mengapa, saya & # x2019 sering bertanya-tanya, adakah sejarah ini diabaikan begitu lama?

Sebagai sommelier muda yang menarik pada Februari 2012, saya pergi ke Tel Aviv untuk IsraWinExpo & # x2013 pameran perdagangan wain terbesar di negara ini. Saya yakin rasa itu akan dipenuhi dengan anggur tempatan yang saya tidak tahu & # x2014Israel & # x2019s setara dengan Yunani & # x2019s Assyrtico atau Lebenon & # x2019s Merwah. Namun saya pergi mengempis. Pembuat minuman anggur dengan bersemangat memuji tong kayu oak Perancis baru dan campuran antarabangsa. Pertanyaan saya mengenai anggur tempatan dipenuhi dengan rasa malu. Anggur yang saya rasakan terasa seperti penipu: dibuat dalam Israel tetapi tidak semestinya dari di sini.

Tetapi Drori sudah ada dalam kasus ini, meninjau populasi tanaman anggur asli dari makmalnya di penempatan Ariel Tepi Barat. Pasukannya telah mengenal pasti 150 genom unik yang mengejutkan dari pengumpulan sampel anggur & # x2014 baik liar dan dari penanam di seluruh negara. Dua puluh menunjukkan janji paling banyak untuk anggur. Dia berusaha untuk membuktikan kuno anggur ini dengan memadankannya dengan bahan tanaman yang terdapat dalam penggalian arkeologi. & # x201CKami mungkin mempunyai warisan wain yang paling menarik, & # x201D katanya, & # x201Tapi kami memerlukan fakta untuk benar-benar menyokongnya, dan dokumentasi itu diabaikan di sini selama bertahun-tahun. & # x201D

Penyelidikan Drori mengenai anggur yang disebut Marawi menarik perhatian Recanati Winery & # x2019s winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. & # x201CI pertama kali mencuba vinifikasi mikro Marawi dari Drori tiga tahun lalu dan segera melihat potensinya, & # x201D kata Lewinsohn. & # x201CJadi & # 39; harapan saya bahawa varieti tempatan seperti ini, serta lebih banyak anggur Mediterranean seperti Marselan dan Carignan akan membantu kami dalam mencari kesamaan Israel yang sebenar. & # x201D Sejak itu Recanati telah menanam kebun anggur Marawi sendiri, tetapi menemui buah pada mulanya terbukti menyusahkan. Untuk pembukaan botol Marawi 2014 yang pertama (peluncuran anggur pertama di negara ini), kilang anggur tersebut mengikat anggur dari sumber rahsia: seorang penanam Palestin berhampiran Bethlehem yang meminta identitinya disembunyikan. Sekiranya didapati bahawa dia menjual anggurnya untuk anggur & # x2014dan kepada Israel tidak kurang juga & # x2014mungkin ada akibat yang serius. & # x201CKami tahu dia menanam anggur di trellis pergola dan bahawa kebun anggurnya diusahakan kering, & # x201D kata Lewinsohn, & # x201Tapi bahawa & # x2019semua maklumat yang kita ada. & # x201D

Teras zaitun di Cremisan Wine Estate di Tebing Barat

& # xA9 Peter Weltman & # xA9 Peter Weltman

Anggur rendah alkohol (sekitar 12 peratus) dengan keasidan yang kuat, rasa tembikai dan pir yang masak dan rasa mulut yang kaya tekstur dari penuaan lapan bulan di lees. 2015 yang baru dibotolkan terasa lebih segar, nota tembikai hijau dan kelembutannya yang mengingatkan pada Chenin Blanc. Label ini memaparkan nama anggur dalam bahasa Ibrani dan Arab & # x2013 sebagai petunjuk halus mengenai asal-usul penyeberangan sempadannya.

Lebih jauh ke daratan di Cremisan Wine Estate, kepala vintner Fadi Batarseh tidak asing dengan kerumitan geografi seperti ini. Pabrik anggur, yang berkaitan dengan biara Kristian, terletak di Tebing Barat. Harta tanahnya & teras batu dramatik yang dipenuhi dengan pohon zaitun dan anggur anggur & # x2014 terletak di kawasan yang sekarang dianggap Bait Jala, Palestin, tetapi itu boleh berubah dengan arus politik. Batarseh sebelumnya telah menulis tesisnya mengenai anggur asli tanah ini semasa belajar oenologi di Trento, Itali. Pada tahun 2007, dia berpasangan dengan ahli oenologi Itali terkenal Riccardo Cotarella untuk memulakan Cremisan & # x2019s Bintang Betlehem seri. & # x201CProjek ini menumpukan pada idea asal, & # x201D katanya. & # x201CKami mempunyai peluang unik ini bukan hanya di Tanah Suci tetapi juga membuat anggur dari anggur asalnya. & # x201D Satu wain dari siri ini, Baladi 2013, adalah satu-satunya merah asli yang saya temui. Ini mempunyai rasa plum mewah yang dapat menyaingi ungkapan Merlot Itali utara terbaik, beraksen dengan nota kopi seperti Syrah. Gabungan lima puluh lima puluh Hamdani (Marawi) dan Jandali yang saya rasakan kemudiannya berkongsi nota tembikai hijau yang serupa dengan wain Marawi yang lain tetapi dengan rasa masin dan sedikit keasidan, yang boleh menjadi ciri anggur Jandali yang lebih jarang.

Saya bertemu dengan seorang lelaki yang sangat mengenali & # x2019s vinescape & # x2014former Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein & makan tengah hari di Tel Aviv & # x2019s Levinsky Market. Dia baru sahaja melancarkan labelnya sendiri awal tahun ini, dan salah satu fokus projek baru adalah Dabouki. Maksud & quotstik & quot dalam bahasa Arab, anggur putih kuno beruban ini banyak ditanam di perbatasan Israel 1948 tetapi telah lama diturunkan untuk digunakan sebagai anggur meja atau dijual dalam jumlah besar untuk disuling sebagai Arak. & # x201Arab merujuk kepada beberapa perkara sebagai min al - & # x2018asr al-rumani, bermaksud & # x2018dari zaman orang Rom, & # x2019 & # x201D kata Feldstein. & # x201CMaksud saya, Dabouki berasal dari sebelumnya! & # x201D Dia menuangkan sampel tangki Dabouki 2015 yang beberapa minggu dari pembotolan, dibuat dari anggur dari tanaman anggur yang dilatih belukar berusia 60 tahun di Hulu Galilee. Ia mempunyai nota tembikai kuning yang berbeza, yang memuaskan Feldstein. & # x201CKami mempunyai tembikai ini di Israel, & # x201D katanya, & # x201Jadi rasanya mempertahankan ekspresi tempatnya! & # x201D

Ungkapan terroir sejati & # x2014bukan hanya dari tanah dan iklim setempat, tetapi juga sejarah tempatan & # x2014 adalah sesuatu yang diharapkan oleh pembuat anggur ini. Dan, sambil mencuba anggur, saya rasa mereka & # 39; Industri wain Israel & # 39; s di tengah-tengah kebangkitan terpenting dalam ribuan tahun.


Anggur Kuno Adalah Masa Depan Anggur Israel

Tiga pembuat anggur yang membungkus sejarah Israel.

& # x201Cerakah anggur yang diminum oleh Yesus? & # x201D Ini adalah tindak balas automatik yang hampir saya terima setiap kali saya menyatakan minat terhadap anggur yang dihasilkan dari anggur asli Israel & # x2019. Tetapi daya tarikan seperti geek saya tidak berasas. Walaupun pembuatan anggur moden di negara ini cenderung memfokuskan pada pemindahan jenis Perancis, seperti Chardonnay dan Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild dari Bordeaux & Chateau Lafite telah membawa penanaman pada akhir abad ke-19), sekumpulan kecil pembuat anggur kini telah kembali ke akar viticultural negara & # x2019s. Sebilangan spesimen ini bukan sahaja berasal dari tanah dan negara mereka juga sangat tua. Penyelidik dan pakar oenologi Universiti Ariel Elyashiv Drori telah menemui sebutan mengenai anggur putih Jandali dan Hamdani (juga dikenali sebagai Marawi) dalam Talmud Babilonia sejak tahun 220 AC Sekarang, anggur tersebut perlahan-lahan memasuki portfolio Israel & # x2019s kilang wain Di tempat yang mempunyai kuno dalam DNAnya, mengapa, saya & # x2019 sering bertanya-tanya, adakah sejarah ini diabaikan begitu lama?

Sebagai sommelier muda yang menarik pada Februari 2012, saya pergi ke Tel Aviv untuk IsraWinExpo & # x2013 pameran perdagangan wain terbesar di negara ini. Saya yakin rasa itu akan dipenuhi dengan anggur tempatan yang saya tidak tahu & # x2014Israel & # x2019s setara dengan Yunani & # x2019s Assyrtico atau Lebenon & # x2019s Merwah. Namun saya pergi mengempis. Pembuat minuman keras dengan bersemangat memuji tong kayu oak Perancis baru dan campuran antarabangsa. My inquiries about local grapes were met with a seeming sense of shame. The wines I tasted felt a little like imposters: made dalam Israel but not necessarily dari di sini.

But Drori was already on the case, surveying the indigenous grapevine population from his laboratory in the West Bank’s Ariel settlement. His team has identified a staggering 150 unique genomes from collecting grape samples𠅋oth wild and from growers around the country. Twenty show the most promise for wine. He is working to substantiate the antiquity of these grapes by matching them to plant material found in archeological excavations. “We may have the most interesting wine legacy,” he says, 𠇋ut we need facts to actually support it, and that documentation was neglected here for too many years.”

Drori’s research on a grape called Marawi caught the attention of Recanati Winery’s energetic winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. “I first tasted a Marawi micro-vinification from Drori three years ago and immediately saw its potential,” says Lewinsohn. “It’s my hope that local varieties like this one, as well as more Mediterranean grapes like Marselan and Carignan will help us in our search for true Israeli typicity.” Recanati has since planted its own Marawi vineyards, but finding fruit at first proved troublesome. For its inaugural 2014 Marawi bottling (the country’s first commercial release of the grape), the winery contracted grapes from a secretive source: a Palestinian grower near Bethlehem who requested his identity be concealed. If it were discovered that he sold his grapes for wine𠅊nd to Israel no less—there could be serious repercussions. “We know he grows the grapes on pergola trellises and that the vineyard is dry-farmed,” says Lewinsohn, 𠇋ut that’s all the information we have.”

Olive terraces at Cremisan Wine Estate in the West Bank

© Peter Weltman © Peter Weltman

The wine is low in alcohol (around 12 percent) with vibrant acidity, ripe melon and pear flavors and a rich, textural mouthfeel from aging eight months on the lees. The newly bottled 2015 tastes even fresher, its green melon notes and wooliness reminiscent of Chenin Blanc. The label displays the grape’s name in both Hebrew and Arabic – a subtle hint at its border-crossing origins.

Further inland at Cremisan Wine Estate, head vintner Fadi Batarseh is no stranger to these sorts of geographic complexities. The winery, associated with a Christian monastery, is located in the West Bank. Its property – dramatic rock terraces studded with olive trees and grape vines—lies in what is now considered Bait Jala, Palestine, but that could change with the political tides. Batarseh had previously written his thesis on the native grapes of this land while studying oenology in Trento, Italy. In 2007, he paired up with famed Italian oenologist Riccardo Cotarella to start Cremisan’s Star of Bethlehem seri. “The project focuses on the idea of origin,” he says. “We have this unique opportunity not to only be in Holy Land but also to make wine from its original grapes.” One wine from the series, a 2013 Baladi, was the only native red that I encountered. It had plush plum flavors that could rival the best northern Italian expressions of Merlot, accented with Syrah-like coffee notes. Their fifty-fifty blend of Hamdani (Marawi) and Jandali that I tasted next shared a similar green melon note with other Marawi wines but with an extra mintiness and punch of acidity, which could be the hallmark of the even rarer Jandali grape.

I caught up with a man who intimately knows the country’s vinescape𠅏ormer Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein—over lunch in Tel Aviv’s Levinsky Market. He just launched his own label earlier this year, and one focus of the new project is Dabouki. Meaning "sticky" in Arabic, this ancient, oblong-berried white grape was widely planted in the 1948 Israeli borders but had long been relegate to use as a table grape or sold in bulk to be distilled as Arak. 𠇊rabs refer to some things as min al-𠆊sr al-rumani, meaning 𠆏rom the time of the Romans,’” Feldstein said. “My point is, Dabouki is from even before that!” He poured a 2015 Dabouki tank sample that was weeks from bottling, made from the grapes of 60-year-old bush trained vines in the Upper Galilee. It had a distinct yellow melon note, which satisfied Feldstein. “We have these melons in Israel,” he said, “so its flavor defends its expression of place!”

True terroir expression—not just of the local soil and climate, but also the local history—was something these winemakers all seemed to be after. And, tasting the wines, I think they&aposve found it. Israel’s wine industry is amidst its most important awakening in thousands of years.


Ancient Grapes Are the Future of Israeli Wine

Three winemakers who are bottling Israel's vinous history.

“Is that the wine that Jesus drank?” This is the near automatic response I receive whenever I express enthusiasm for wine made from Israel’s native grapes. But my geek-like fascination is not unfounded. Although modern winemaking in the country tends to focus on transplant French varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Bordeaux’s Chateau Lafite brought over plantings in the late 19th Century), a small group of winemakers have now gone back to the country’s viticultural roots. Some of these specimens are not only native to the land and country they’re also very old. Ariel University researcher and oenologist Elyashiv Drori has found references to the white grapes Jandali and Hamdani (also known as Marawi) in the Babylonian Talmud dating back as far as 220 A.C. Now, those grapes are slowly making their way into the portfolios of Israel’s wineries. In a place that has antiquity in its DNA, why, I’ve often wondered, was this history ignored for so long?

As an impressionable young sommelier in February 2012, I traveled to Tel Aviv for IsraWinExpo – the country’s largest wine trade show. I was certain the tasting would be filled with local grapes I didn’t know—Israel’s equivalent of Greece’s Assyrtico or Lebenon’s Merwah grape. Yet I left deflated. Winemakers eagerly extolled their new French oak barrels and international blends. My inquiries about local grapes were met with a seeming sense of shame. The wines I tasted felt a little like imposters: made dalam Israel but not necessarily dari di sini.

But Drori was already on the case, surveying the indigenous grapevine population from his laboratory in the West Bank’s Ariel settlement. His team has identified a staggering 150 unique genomes from collecting grape samples𠅋oth wild and from growers around the country. Twenty show the most promise for wine. He is working to substantiate the antiquity of these grapes by matching them to plant material found in archeological excavations. “We may have the most interesting wine legacy,” he says, 𠇋ut we need facts to actually support it, and that documentation was neglected here for too many years.”

Drori’s research on a grape called Marawi caught the attention of Recanati Winery’s energetic winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. “I first tasted a Marawi micro-vinification from Drori three years ago and immediately saw its potential,” says Lewinsohn. “It’s my hope that local varieties like this one, as well as more Mediterranean grapes like Marselan and Carignan will help us in our search for true Israeli typicity.” Recanati has since planted its own Marawi vineyards, but finding fruit at first proved troublesome. For its inaugural 2014 Marawi bottling (the country’s first commercial release of the grape), the winery contracted grapes from a secretive source: a Palestinian grower near Bethlehem who requested his identity be concealed. If it were discovered that he sold his grapes for wine𠅊nd to Israel no less—there could be serious repercussions. “We know he grows the grapes on pergola trellises and that the vineyard is dry-farmed,” says Lewinsohn, 𠇋ut that’s all the information we have.”

Olive terraces at Cremisan Wine Estate in the West Bank

© Peter Weltman © Peter Weltman

The wine is low in alcohol (around 12 percent) with vibrant acidity, ripe melon and pear flavors and a rich, textural mouthfeel from aging eight months on the lees. The newly bottled 2015 tastes even fresher, its green melon notes and wooliness reminiscent of Chenin Blanc. The label displays the grape’s name in both Hebrew and Arabic – a subtle hint at its border-crossing origins.

Further inland at Cremisan Wine Estate, head vintner Fadi Batarseh is no stranger to these sorts of geographic complexities. The winery, associated with a Christian monastery, is located in the West Bank. Its property – dramatic rock terraces studded with olive trees and grape vines—lies in what is now considered Bait Jala, Palestine, but that could change with the political tides. Batarseh had previously written his thesis on the native grapes of this land while studying oenology in Trento, Italy. In 2007, he paired up with famed Italian oenologist Riccardo Cotarella to start Cremisan’s Star of Bethlehem seri. “The project focuses on the idea of origin,” he says. “We have this unique opportunity not to only be in Holy Land but also to make wine from its original grapes.” One wine from the series, a 2013 Baladi, was the only native red that I encountered. It had plush plum flavors that could rival the best northern Italian expressions of Merlot, accented with Syrah-like coffee notes. Their fifty-fifty blend of Hamdani (Marawi) and Jandali that I tasted next shared a similar green melon note with other Marawi wines but with an extra mintiness and punch of acidity, which could be the hallmark of the even rarer Jandali grape.

I caught up with a man who intimately knows the country’s vinescape𠅏ormer Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein—over lunch in Tel Aviv’s Levinsky Market. He just launched his own label earlier this year, and one focus of the new project is Dabouki. Meaning "sticky" in Arabic, this ancient, oblong-berried white grape was widely planted in the 1948 Israeli borders but had long been relegate to use as a table grape or sold in bulk to be distilled as Arak. 𠇊rabs refer to some things as min al-𠆊sr al-rumani, meaning 𠆏rom the time of the Romans,’” Feldstein said. “My point is, Dabouki is from even before that!” He poured a 2015 Dabouki tank sample that was weeks from bottling, made from the grapes of 60-year-old bush trained vines in the Upper Galilee. It had a distinct yellow melon note, which satisfied Feldstein. “We have these melons in Israel,” he said, “so its flavor defends its expression of place!”

True terroir expression—not just of the local soil and climate, but also the local history—was something these winemakers all seemed to be after. And, tasting the wines, I think they&aposve found it. Israel’s wine industry is amidst its most important awakening in thousands of years.


Ancient Grapes Are the Future of Israeli Wine

Three winemakers who are bottling Israel's vinous history.

“Is that the wine that Jesus drank?” This is the near automatic response I receive whenever I express enthusiasm for wine made from Israel’s native grapes. But my geek-like fascination is not unfounded. Although modern winemaking in the country tends to focus on transplant French varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Bordeaux’s Chateau Lafite brought over plantings in the late 19th Century), a small group of winemakers have now gone back to the country’s viticultural roots. Some of these specimens are not only native to the land and country they’re also very old. Ariel University researcher and oenologist Elyashiv Drori has found references to the white grapes Jandali and Hamdani (also known as Marawi) in the Babylonian Talmud dating back as far as 220 A.C. Now, those grapes are slowly making their way into the portfolios of Israel’s wineries. In a place that has antiquity in its DNA, why, I’ve often wondered, was this history ignored for so long?

As an impressionable young sommelier in February 2012, I traveled to Tel Aviv for IsraWinExpo – the country’s largest wine trade show. I was certain the tasting would be filled with local grapes I didn’t know—Israel’s equivalent of Greece’s Assyrtico or Lebenon’s Merwah grape. Yet I left deflated. Winemakers eagerly extolled their new French oak barrels and international blends. My inquiries about local grapes were met with a seeming sense of shame. The wines I tasted felt a little like imposters: made dalam Israel but not necessarily dari di sini.

But Drori was already on the case, surveying the indigenous grapevine population from his laboratory in the West Bank’s Ariel settlement. His team has identified a staggering 150 unique genomes from collecting grape samples𠅋oth wild and from growers around the country. Twenty show the most promise for wine. He is working to substantiate the antiquity of these grapes by matching them to plant material found in archeological excavations. “We may have the most interesting wine legacy,” he says, 𠇋ut we need facts to actually support it, and that documentation was neglected here for too many years.”

Drori’s research on a grape called Marawi caught the attention of Recanati Winery’s energetic winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. “I first tasted a Marawi micro-vinification from Drori three years ago and immediately saw its potential,” says Lewinsohn. “It’s my hope that local varieties like this one, as well as more Mediterranean grapes like Marselan and Carignan will help us in our search for true Israeli typicity.” Recanati has since planted its own Marawi vineyards, but finding fruit at first proved troublesome. For its inaugural 2014 Marawi bottling (the country’s first commercial release of the grape), the winery contracted grapes from a secretive source: a Palestinian grower near Bethlehem who requested his identity be concealed. If it were discovered that he sold his grapes for wine𠅊nd to Israel no less—there could be serious repercussions. “We know he grows the grapes on pergola trellises and that the vineyard is dry-farmed,” says Lewinsohn, 𠇋ut that’s all the information we have.”

Olive terraces at Cremisan Wine Estate in the West Bank

© Peter Weltman © Peter Weltman

The wine is low in alcohol (around 12 percent) with vibrant acidity, ripe melon and pear flavors and a rich, textural mouthfeel from aging eight months on the lees. The newly bottled 2015 tastes even fresher, its green melon notes and wooliness reminiscent of Chenin Blanc. The label displays the grape’s name in both Hebrew and Arabic – a subtle hint at its border-crossing origins.

Further inland at Cremisan Wine Estate, head vintner Fadi Batarseh is no stranger to these sorts of geographic complexities. The winery, associated with a Christian monastery, is located in the West Bank. Its property – dramatic rock terraces studded with olive trees and grape vines—lies in what is now considered Bait Jala, Palestine, but that could change with the political tides. Batarseh had previously written his thesis on the native grapes of this land while studying oenology in Trento, Italy. In 2007, he paired up with famed Italian oenologist Riccardo Cotarella to start Cremisan’s Star of Bethlehem seri. “The project focuses on the idea of origin,” he says. “We have this unique opportunity not to only be in Holy Land but also to make wine from its original grapes.” One wine from the series, a 2013 Baladi, was the only native red that I encountered. It had plush plum flavors that could rival the best northern Italian expressions of Merlot, accented with Syrah-like coffee notes. Their fifty-fifty blend of Hamdani (Marawi) and Jandali that I tasted next shared a similar green melon note with other Marawi wines but with an extra mintiness and punch of acidity, which could be the hallmark of the even rarer Jandali grape.

I caught up with a man who intimately knows the country’s vinescape𠅏ormer Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein—over lunch in Tel Aviv’s Levinsky Market. He just launched his own label earlier this year, and one focus of the new project is Dabouki. Meaning "sticky" in Arabic, this ancient, oblong-berried white grape was widely planted in the 1948 Israeli borders but had long been relegate to use as a table grape or sold in bulk to be distilled as Arak. 𠇊rabs refer to some things as min al-𠆊sr al-rumani, meaning 𠆏rom the time of the Romans,’” Feldstein said. “My point is, Dabouki is from even before that!” He poured a 2015 Dabouki tank sample that was weeks from bottling, made from the grapes of 60-year-old bush trained vines in the Upper Galilee. It had a distinct yellow melon note, which satisfied Feldstein. “We have these melons in Israel,” he said, “so its flavor defends its expression of place!”

True terroir expression—not just of the local soil and climate, but also the local history—was something these winemakers all seemed to be after. And, tasting the wines, I think they&aposve found it. Israel’s wine industry is amidst its most important awakening in thousands of years.


Ancient Grapes Are the Future of Israeli Wine

Three winemakers who are bottling Israel's vinous history.

“Is that the wine that Jesus drank?” This is the near automatic response I receive whenever I express enthusiasm for wine made from Israel’s native grapes. But my geek-like fascination is not unfounded. Although modern winemaking in the country tends to focus on transplant French varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Bordeaux’s Chateau Lafite brought over plantings in the late 19th Century), a small group of winemakers have now gone back to the country’s viticultural roots. Some of these specimens are not only native to the land and country they’re also very old. Ariel University researcher and oenologist Elyashiv Drori has found references to the white grapes Jandali and Hamdani (also known as Marawi) in the Babylonian Talmud dating back as far as 220 A.C. Now, those grapes are slowly making their way into the portfolios of Israel’s wineries. In a place that has antiquity in its DNA, why, I’ve often wondered, was this history ignored for so long?

As an impressionable young sommelier in February 2012, I traveled to Tel Aviv for IsraWinExpo – the country’s largest wine trade show. I was certain the tasting would be filled with local grapes I didn’t know—Israel’s equivalent of Greece’s Assyrtico or Lebenon’s Merwah grape. Yet I left deflated. Winemakers eagerly extolled their new French oak barrels and international blends. My inquiries about local grapes were met with a seeming sense of shame. The wines I tasted felt a little like imposters: made dalam Israel but not necessarily dari di sini.

But Drori was already on the case, surveying the indigenous grapevine population from his laboratory in the West Bank’s Ariel settlement. His team has identified a staggering 150 unique genomes from collecting grape samples𠅋oth wild and from growers around the country. Twenty show the most promise for wine. He is working to substantiate the antiquity of these grapes by matching them to plant material found in archeological excavations. “We may have the most interesting wine legacy,” he says, 𠇋ut we need facts to actually support it, and that documentation was neglected here for too many years.”

Drori’s research on a grape called Marawi caught the attention of Recanati Winery’s energetic winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. “I first tasted a Marawi micro-vinification from Drori three years ago and immediately saw its potential,” says Lewinsohn. “It’s my hope that local varieties like this one, as well as more Mediterranean grapes like Marselan and Carignan will help us in our search for true Israeli typicity.” Recanati has since planted its own Marawi vineyards, but finding fruit at first proved troublesome. For its inaugural 2014 Marawi bottling (the country’s first commercial release of the grape), the winery contracted grapes from a secretive source: a Palestinian grower near Bethlehem who requested his identity be concealed. If it were discovered that he sold his grapes for wine𠅊nd to Israel no less—there could be serious repercussions. “We know he grows the grapes on pergola trellises and that the vineyard is dry-farmed,” says Lewinsohn, 𠇋ut that’s all the information we have.”

Olive terraces at Cremisan Wine Estate in the West Bank

© Peter Weltman © Peter Weltman

The wine is low in alcohol (around 12 percent) with vibrant acidity, ripe melon and pear flavors and a rich, textural mouthfeel from aging eight months on the lees. The newly bottled 2015 tastes even fresher, its green melon notes and wooliness reminiscent of Chenin Blanc. The label displays the grape’s name in both Hebrew and Arabic – a subtle hint at its border-crossing origins.

Further inland at Cremisan Wine Estate, head vintner Fadi Batarseh is no stranger to these sorts of geographic complexities. The winery, associated with a Christian monastery, is located in the West Bank. Its property – dramatic rock terraces studded with olive trees and grape vines—lies in what is now considered Bait Jala, Palestine, but that could change with the political tides. Batarseh had previously written his thesis on the native grapes of this land while studying oenology in Trento, Italy. In 2007, he paired up with famed Italian oenologist Riccardo Cotarella to start Cremisan’s Star of Bethlehem seri. “The project focuses on the idea of origin,” he says. “We have this unique opportunity not to only be in Holy Land but also to make wine from its original grapes.” One wine from the series, a 2013 Baladi, was the only native red that I encountered. It had plush plum flavors that could rival the best northern Italian expressions of Merlot, accented with Syrah-like coffee notes. Their fifty-fifty blend of Hamdani (Marawi) and Jandali that I tasted next shared a similar green melon note with other Marawi wines but with an extra mintiness and punch of acidity, which could be the hallmark of the even rarer Jandali grape.

I caught up with a man who intimately knows the country’s vinescape𠅏ormer Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein—over lunch in Tel Aviv’s Levinsky Market. He just launched his own label earlier this year, and one focus of the new project is Dabouki. Meaning "sticky" in Arabic, this ancient, oblong-berried white grape was widely planted in the 1948 Israeli borders but had long been relegate to use as a table grape or sold in bulk to be distilled as Arak. 𠇊rabs refer to some things as min al-𠆊sr al-rumani, meaning 𠆏rom the time of the Romans,’” Feldstein said. “My point is, Dabouki is from even before that!” He poured a 2015 Dabouki tank sample that was weeks from bottling, made from the grapes of 60-year-old bush trained vines in the Upper Galilee. It had a distinct yellow melon note, which satisfied Feldstein. “We have these melons in Israel,” he said, “so its flavor defends its expression of place!”

True terroir expression—not just of the local soil and climate, but also the local history—was something these winemakers all seemed to be after. And, tasting the wines, I think they&aposve found it. Israel’s wine industry is amidst its most important awakening in thousands of years.


Ancient Grapes Are the Future of Israeli Wine

Three winemakers who are bottling Israel's vinous history.

“Is that the wine that Jesus drank?” This is the near automatic response I receive whenever I express enthusiasm for wine made from Israel’s native grapes. But my geek-like fascination is not unfounded. Although modern winemaking in the country tends to focus on transplant French varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Bordeaux’s Chateau Lafite brought over plantings in the late 19th Century), a small group of winemakers have now gone back to the country’s viticultural roots. Some of these specimens are not only native to the land and country they’re also very old. Ariel University researcher and oenologist Elyashiv Drori has found references to the white grapes Jandali and Hamdani (also known as Marawi) in the Babylonian Talmud dating back as far as 220 A.C. Now, those grapes are slowly making their way into the portfolios of Israel’s wineries. In a place that has antiquity in its DNA, why, I’ve often wondered, was this history ignored for so long?

As an impressionable young sommelier in February 2012, I traveled to Tel Aviv for IsraWinExpo – the country’s largest wine trade show. I was certain the tasting would be filled with local grapes I didn’t know—Israel’s equivalent of Greece’s Assyrtico or Lebenon’s Merwah grape. Yet I left deflated. Winemakers eagerly extolled their new French oak barrels and international blends. My inquiries about local grapes were met with a seeming sense of shame. The wines I tasted felt a little like imposters: made dalam Israel but not necessarily dari di sini.

But Drori was already on the case, surveying the indigenous grapevine population from his laboratory in the West Bank’s Ariel settlement. His team has identified a staggering 150 unique genomes from collecting grape samples𠅋oth wild and from growers around the country. Twenty show the most promise for wine. He is working to substantiate the antiquity of these grapes by matching them to plant material found in archeological excavations. “We may have the most interesting wine legacy,” he says, 𠇋ut we need facts to actually support it, and that documentation was neglected here for too many years.”

Drori’s research on a grape called Marawi caught the attention of Recanati Winery’s energetic winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. “I first tasted a Marawi micro-vinification from Drori three years ago and immediately saw its potential,” says Lewinsohn. “It’s my hope that local varieties like this one, as well as more Mediterranean grapes like Marselan and Carignan will help us in our search for true Israeli typicity.” Recanati has since planted its own Marawi vineyards, but finding fruit at first proved troublesome. For its inaugural 2014 Marawi bottling (the country’s first commercial release of the grape), the winery contracted grapes from a secretive source: a Palestinian grower near Bethlehem who requested his identity be concealed. If it were discovered that he sold his grapes for wine𠅊nd to Israel no less—there could be serious repercussions. “We know he grows the grapes on pergola trellises and that the vineyard is dry-farmed,” says Lewinsohn, 𠇋ut that’s all the information we have.”

Olive terraces at Cremisan Wine Estate in the West Bank

© Peter Weltman © Peter Weltman

The wine is low in alcohol (around 12 percent) with vibrant acidity, ripe melon and pear flavors and a rich, textural mouthfeel from aging eight months on the lees. The newly bottled 2015 tastes even fresher, its green melon notes and wooliness reminiscent of Chenin Blanc. The label displays the grape’s name in both Hebrew and Arabic – a subtle hint at its border-crossing origins.

Further inland at Cremisan Wine Estate, head vintner Fadi Batarseh is no stranger to these sorts of geographic complexities. The winery, associated with a Christian monastery, is located in the West Bank. Its property – dramatic rock terraces studded with olive trees and grape vines—lies in what is now considered Bait Jala, Palestine, but that could change with the political tides. Batarseh had previously written his thesis on the native grapes of this land while studying oenology in Trento, Italy. In 2007, he paired up with famed Italian oenologist Riccardo Cotarella to start Cremisan’s Star of Bethlehem seri. “The project focuses on the idea of origin,” he says. “We have this unique opportunity not to only be in Holy Land but also to make wine from its original grapes.” One wine from the series, a 2013 Baladi, was the only native red that I encountered. It had plush plum flavors that could rival the best northern Italian expressions of Merlot, accented with Syrah-like coffee notes. Their fifty-fifty blend of Hamdani (Marawi) and Jandali that I tasted next shared a similar green melon note with other Marawi wines but with an extra mintiness and punch of acidity, which could be the hallmark of the even rarer Jandali grape.

I caught up with a man who intimately knows the country’s vinescape𠅏ormer Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein—over lunch in Tel Aviv’s Levinsky Market. He just launched his own label earlier this year, and one focus of the new project is Dabouki. Meaning "sticky" in Arabic, this ancient, oblong-berried white grape was widely planted in the 1948 Israeli borders but had long been relegate to use as a table grape or sold in bulk to be distilled as Arak. 𠇊rabs refer to some things as min al-𠆊sr al-rumani, meaning 𠆏rom the time of the Romans,’” Feldstein said. “My point is, Dabouki is from even before that!” He poured a 2015 Dabouki tank sample that was weeks from bottling, made from the grapes of 60-year-old bush trained vines in the Upper Galilee. It had a distinct yellow melon note, which satisfied Feldstein. “We have these melons in Israel,” he said, “so its flavor defends its expression of place!”

True terroir expression—not just of the local soil and climate, but also the local history—was something these winemakers all seemed to be after. And, tasting the wines, I think they&aposve found it. Israel’s wine industry is amidst its most important awakening in thousands of years.


Ancient Grapes Are the Future of Israeli Wine

Three winemakers who are bottling Israel's vinous history.

“Is that the wine that Jesus drank?” This is the near automatic response I receive whenever I express enthusiasm for wine made from Israel’s native grapes. But my geek-like fascination is not unfounded. Although modern winemaking in the country tends to focus on transplant French varieties, like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon (Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Bordeaux’s Chateau Lafite brought over plantings in the late 19th Century), a small group of winemakers have now gone back to the country’s viticultural roots. Some of these specimens are not only native to the land and country they’re also very old. Ariel University researcher and oenologist Elyashiv Drori has found references to the white grapes Jandali and Hamdani (also known as Marawi) in the Babylonian Talmud dating back as far as 220 A.C. Now, those grapes are slowly making their way into the portfolios of Israel’s wineries. In a place that has antiquity in its DNA, why, I’ve often wondered, was this history ignored for so long?

As an impressionable young sommelier in February 2012, I traveled to Tel Aviv for IsraWinExpo – the country’s largest wine trade show. I was certain the tasting would be filled with local grapes I didn’t know—Israel’s equivalent of Greece’s Assyrtico or Lebenon’s Merwah grape. Yet I left deflated. Winemakers eagerly extolled their new French oak barrels and international blends. My inquiries about local grapes were met with a seeming sense of shame. The wines I tasted felt a little like imposters: made dalam Israel but not necessarily dari di sini.

But Drori was already on the case, surveying the indigenous grapevine population from his laboratory in the West Bank’s Ariel settlement. His team has identified a staggering 150 unique genomes from collecting grape samples𠅋oth wild and from growers around the country. Twenty show the most promise for wine. He is working to substantiate the antiquity of these grapes by matching them to plant material found in archeological excavations. “We may have the most interesting wine legacy,” he says, 𠇋ut we need facts to actually support it, and that documentation was neglected here for too many years.”

Drori’s research on a grape called Marawi caught the attention of Recanati Winery’s energetic winemaker Ido Lewinsohn. “I first tasted a Marawi micro-vinification from Drori three years ago and immediately saw its potential,” says Lewinsohn. “It’s my hope that local varieties like this one, as well as more Mediterranean grapes like Marselan and Carignan will help us in our search for true Israeli typicity.” Recanati has since planted its own Marawi vineyards, but finding fruit at first proved troublesome. For its inaugural 2014 Marawi bottling (the country’s first commercial release of the grape), the winery contracted grapes from a secretive source: a Palestinian grower near Bethlehem who requested his identity be concealed. If it were discovered that he sold his grapes for wine𠅊nd to Israel no less—there could be serious repercussions. “We know he grows the grapes on pergola trellises and that the vineyard is dry-farmed,” says Lewinsohn, 𠇋ut that’s all the information we have.”

Olive terraces at Cremisan Wine Estate in the West Bank

© Peter Weltman © Peter Weltman

The wine is low in alcohol (around 12 percent) with vibrant acidity, ripe melon and pear flavors and a rich, textural mouthfeel from aging eight months on the lees. The newly bottled 2015 tastes even fresher, its green melon notes and wooliness reminiscent of Chenin Blanc. The label displays the grape’s name in both Hebrew and Arabic – a subtle hint at its border-crossing origins.

Further inland at Cremisan Wine Estate, head vintner Fadi Batarseh is no stranger to these sorts of geographic complexities. The winery, associated with a Christian monastery, is located in the West Bank. Its property – dramatic rock terraces studded with olive trees and grape vines—lies in what is now considered Bait Jala, Palestine, but that could change with the political tides. Batarseh had previously written his thesis on the native grapes of this land while studying oenology in Trento, Italy. In 2007, he paired up with famed Italian oenologist Riccardo Cotarella to start Cremisan’s Star of Bethlehem seri. “The project focuses on the idea of origin,” he says. “We have this unique opportunity not to only be in Holy Land but also to make wine from its original grapes.” One wine from the series, a 2013 Baladi, was the only native red that I encountered. It had plush plum flavors that could rival the best northern Italian expressions of Merlot, accented with Syrah-like coffee notes. Their fifty-fifty blend of Hamdani (Marawi) and Jandali that I tasted next shared a similar green melon note with other Marawi wines but with an extra mintiness and punch of acidity, which could be the hallmark of the even rarer Jandali grape.

I caught up with a man who intimately knows the country’s vinescape𠅏ormer Segal Wines head winemaker Avi Feldstein—over lunch in Tel Aviv’s Levinsky Market. He just launched his own label earlier this year, and one focus of the new project is Dabouki. Meaning "sticky" in Arabic, this ancient, oblong-berried white grape was widely planted in the 1948 Israeli borders but had long been relegate to use as a table grape or sold in bulk to be distilled as Arak. 𠇊rabs refer to some things as min al-𠆊sr al-rumani, meaning 𠆏rom the time of the Romans,’” Feldstein said. “My point is, Dabouki is from even before that!” He poured a 2015 Dabouki tank sample that was weeks from bottling, made from the grapes of 60-year-old bush trained vines in the Upper Galilee. It had a distinct yellow melon note, which satisfied Feldstein. “We have these melons in Israel,” he said, “so its flavor defends its expression of place!”

True terroir expression—not just of the local soil and climate, but also the local history—was something these winemakers all seemed to be after. And, tasting the wines, I think they&aposve found it. Israel’s wine industry is amidst its most important awakening in thousands of years.


Tonton videonya: Waktu Yang tepat membungkus buah kelengkeng (November 2021).